Showing posts with label Expeditions. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Expeditions. Show all posts

Gasherbrum-II Expedition 2019


Gasherbrum means a shining wall. There are six Gasherbrum peaks in the Karakorum Range. It was captain Young husband and his party, which in 1889 discovered Gasherbrum glacier.
In 1956, members of an Austrian Karakorum expedition climbed Gasherbrum-II (8035m/26,361ft). The party was led by Fritz Moravec. It set up a base camp on the south Gasherbrum glacier. Camp-1 was set up at 6,005m/19,700ft. It was here that the party was forced to stay for ten days because of a severe storm. Consequently, it lost a large supply store in an avalanche. After setting up a few more camps, Fritz Moravec, Josef larch and Hans Willenpart set up a bivouac below 7,620m/25,000ft. In spite of frostbites suffered in the bivouac, the three reached the summit of Gasherbrum-II on the 8th July and came back without meeting any further accident. 

  June 20, 2019 to August 13, 2019

Day
Itinerary
Day
Itinerary
01
Islamabad


02
Drive to Chilas 11-12hrs
41
Trek back to Goro-II
03
Drive to Skardu 8-9hrs
42
Trek to Urdukas
04
Drive to Askoli 6-7hrs
43
Trek down to Paiyu
05
Trek to Jhola 6-7hrs
44
Trek down to Jhola
06
Trek to Paiyu 6-7hrs
45
Trek to Askoli
07
Free day in Paiyu
46
Drive back to Skardu
08
Trek to Urdukas 7-8hrs
44
Drive to Chilas
09
Trek to Gogo-II 5-6hrs
48
Drive to Islamabad
10
Trek to Concordia 5-6hrs
49
Islamabad 
11
Gasherbrum base camp 6-7hrs   
50
Islamabad
12/40
29 days for climbing



Services included list

Hotels
Climbing permit fee $5400
Islamabad:
Additional royalty fee $900
Embassy Lodge- guesthouse- Heritage Lodge
Environmental tax $200
Chilas:
Liaison officer daily wages
Midway Shangri-La
Liaison officer kit/equipment
Skardu
Staff: Guide, Cook & assistant cooks
K2 Motel- Concordia Motel - Masherbrum hotel
Transport:
Camp Food:
Air port pick and drop
Askoli- Gasherbrum BC- Askoli & at BC
Islamabad- Skardu- Islamabad
Camping Equipment:
Jeeps: Skardu- Askoli- Skardu
D3V sleeping tents, Mess tent, Kitchen tent
Porter: Askoli- Gasherbrum BC- Askoli
Toilet tent, shower tent, Mattresses, Chairs, Tables
Arrange welfare meeting with Alpine Club
Assistance in cargo clearance 
Kitchen utensils




Broad Peak (8047-M) Expedition 2019


Broad Peak (originally named K3) is the 12th highest mountain on Earth, located on the border of China-Pakistan. Broad Peak is part of the Gasherbrum massif and is about 8 kilometers (5 miles) from K2. Broad Peak was originally named K3 right after the naming of K2 but on closer inspection by a later party, it was discovered that the summit was over 1½ kilometers (1 mile) long, thus "Broad Peak". Broad Peak is known locally as Faichan Kangri. The literal translation of "Broad Peak" to Phalchan Kangri is not accepted among the Baltis. 
The first ascent of Broad Peak was made on June 9, 1957 by Fritz Wintersteller, Marcus Schmuck, Kurt Diemberger, and Hermann Buhl of an Austrian expedition led by Marcus Schmuck. A first attempt by the team was made on May 29 where Fritz Wintersteller and Kurt Diemberger reached the forepeak (8,030m). This was also accomplished without the aid of supplemental oxygen or high altitude porters and without base camp support.

Broad Peak
OtherNames       
Falchen Kangri, K-3
Latitude:
35° – 48 N
Elevation:
8047-m (26,414 ft)
Longitude:
76° – 33 E
Ranked:
12th (4th in Pakistan)
BC height
4800-M
Location:
Karakorum- Baltoro Skardu
Best Period:
June to August
Duration:
50 Days
First Accent:
June 9, 1957 by an Austrian team

Day
Itinerary
09
Trek to Goro-II (5-6hrs) 4380m
01
Islamabad/Rawalpindi
10
Trek to Broad Peak base camp 4800m
02
Drive to Chilas 11-12hrs
11/40
30 days for climbing
03
Drive to Skardu 8-9hrs
41/45
Trek down to Askoli or Hushe
04
Drive to Askoli 6-7hrs 3000m
46
Drive to Skardu 6-7hrs
05
Trek to Jhola 5-6hrs 3200m
47
Drive to Chilas 8-9hrs
06
Trek to Paiyu 6-7 hrs 3450m
48
Drive to Islamabad 11-12hrs
07
Free day in Paiyu
49
Islamabad
08
Trek to Urdukas 6-7hrs 4050m
50
Fly back 










June 20, 2019, to  August 10, 2019

Services included list
Royalty fee U$ 5400
Hotels:
Additional royalty fee U$ 900 
Islamabad: Embassy Lodge, Heritage, Chancery
Environmental tax U$ 200
Chilas:            Midway Shangri-La
Liaison officer daily wages & equipment
Skardu: K2 Motel, Concordia Motel,  Masherbrum
Arrange welfare meeting at Alpine Club Member’s personal baggage 
Transport:
 Islamabad- Skardu, Islamabad, pick and drops
Cargo clearance
4 X4 Jeeps: Skardu, Askoli- Skardu
Staff:   Guide, cook, assistant cooks
Porters: Askoli, Gasherbrum BC, Hushe
Camping Food: Askoli, Gasherbrum BC, Hushe & 30
days in base camp
Camping Equipment
D3V sleeping tent, mess tent, kitchen tent,
store tent, toilet tent, shower tent, mattress,
chairs, tables etc
Kitchen utensils:      
Complete kitchen utensils (crockery) 

K-2 Expedition 2019


The local name of K-2 is Chogori, which in Balti Language means the king of mountains. This is little known in the outside world. It is, therefore, desirable that the present name- K-2-is used. It is, however, desirable to popularize the local name, which so succinctly conveys the hugeness of the mountain.
K-2 has variously been described as “awesome” Killer” and “Savage” Mountain. This is because of the massiveness of its size and unsuccessful attempts made on it by various expedition parties, including Americans, who made quite a few attempts on it. K-2 is a rocky mountain up to 6,000m, beyond which it becomes an ocean of snow. K-2 is situated on the Pak-China border in the mighty Karakorum.

June 20, 2019, to August 13, 2019

Day
Itinerary
Day
Itinerary
01
Islamabad


02
Drive to Chilas 11-12hrs
50
Trek back to Concordia  
03
Drive to Skardu 8-9hrs
51
Trek to Goro-II
04
Drive to Askoli 6-7hrs
52
Trek down to Urdukas
05
Trek to Jhola 6-7hrs
53
Trek down to Paiyu
06
Trek to Paiyu 6-7hrs
54
Trek to Jhola
07
Free day in Paiyu
55
Trek to Askoli
08
Trek to Urdukas 7-8hrs
56
Drive to Skardu 6-7hrs
09
Trek to Gogo-II 5-6hrs
57
Drive to Chilas 8-9hrs
10
Trek to Concordia 5-6hrs
58
Drive to Islamabad 11-12hrs
11
Trek to K2 base camp  
59
Islamabad
12/49
38 days for climbing
60
Fly back
  
Services included list
Hotels
Climbing permit fee $7200
Islamabad:
Additional royalty fee $1200
Embassy Lodge- guesthouse- Heritage Lodge
Environmental tax $200
Chilas:
Liaison officer daily wages
Midway Shangri-La
Liaison officer kit/equipment
Skardu
Staff:
K2 Motel- Concordia Motel - Masherbrum hotel
Guide, Cook & assistant cooks
Camp Food:
Transport:
Askoli- K2 BC- Askoli
Islamabad- Skardu- Islamabad
Camping Equipment:
Jeeps: Skardu- Askoli- Skardu
Porter: Askoli- K2 BC- Askoli
D3V sleeping tents, Mess tent, Kitchen tent
Toilet tent, Mattresses, Chairs Kitchen utensils

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