Diran Peak Expedition 2018

Peak Height                7266-M

Range                         Karakorum

BC height                    3650-M

Duration                      32 Days

Location                      Minapin Glacier

Best Period                 June- August

Diran is a mountain in the Karakorum Range of the Northern Areas of Pakistan. This pyramid shaped mountain lies in the East of Rakaposhi (7,788m).

Diran was first climbed in 1968 by three Austrians Rainer Goeschl, Rudolph Pischinger and Hanns Schell. Earlier attempts by a German expedition in 1959 and an Australian expedition in 1964 were unsuccessful.

Day-01             Islamabad/Rawalpindi

Day-02             Drive to Chilas 1-12hrs

Day-03             Drive to Minapin 5-6 hrs 2012m

Day-04             Trek to Hapakun 4-hrs 2804m

Day-05             Trek to Tagaphari 3-4hrs 3261m

Day-06             Trek to Diran Peak BC 3650m

Day-07/26        20 days for climbing

Day-27             Trek down to Tagaphari

Day-28             Minapin- Karimabad

Day-29             Karimabad

Day-30             Drive to Besham 9-10hrs

Day-31             Drive to Islamabad 5-6hrs

Day-32             Fly back 

Royalty fee/Climbing permit fee U$250 for seven members

Additional royalty fee

Environmental tax U$ 200

Hotels:                                   

Islamabad: Embassy Lodge, Chancery guesthouse, Heritage Lodge

Minapin: Diran guesthouse

Chilas: Midway Shangri-La, Panorama hotel 

Hunza: Hunza Embassy, Serena hotel, Eagles Nest hotel  

Besham: PTDC Motel, Besham Continental    

Transport:

Islamabad Minapin, Karimabad- Islamabad, pick and drop from airport to hotel, airport
Camp food, porters, guide, cook, assistant cooks

Camping equipment 

D3V sleeping tent, mess tent, kitchen tent, toilet tent, mattress, chairs, tables

Complete kitchen utensils (crockery) 

Winter Gasherbrum-II Expedition 2010/2011

Italian Winter Gasherbrum-II Expedition 2010/2011

In a three-day push from base camp, Simone Moro, Denis Urubko and Cory Richards have completed the first winter 8000-meter ascent of Gasherbrum II. On February 2nd the team reached the summit of Gasherbrum II (8035m) in the remote Karakoram Range in northwest Pakistan."It has been very hard, but the three of us feel well," Simone Moro reported from the summit. The team left their 6900m camp at 3 a.m on 2^nd February. and reached the summit around 11:30 a.m. As weather conditions continue to deteriorate, they were unable to reach BC yesterday due to a major storm hitting the mountain. They however reached safely C1.

Passu Peak Expedition 2018

Passu peak 7284m 

Passu peak is situated near Batura Muztagh (Muchutsil) Passu Saddle. Passu peak 7284m/23897ft, (36-29N- 74-37E) In 1978 first time Passu peak was climbed by the Japan/Pakistan (joint expedition) National Defence academy alpine club expedition, which was led by Captain Chitoshi Ando from Japan’s side and Major Manzoor Hussain Pakistan’s side. There is an easy approach from Islamabad, Gilgit, Hunza and Borit Lake, from here we start trek to Passughar, Luzdar, Patundas Pass 4200m and trek down to Passu Peak BC. It is nice camp site here with small beautiful Lake.

Day-01             Islamabad/Rawalpindi

Day-02             Drive to Chilas 11-12hrs

Day-03             Drive to Karimabad 6-7hrs

Day-04             Attaabad Lake- Gulmit- Borith Lake

Day-05             Trek to Luzdhur 3400m

Day-06             Trek to Patundas Pass 4100m

Day-07             Trek to Passu Peak base camp

Day-08/24        (17dasys for climbing)

Day-25             Trek to Luzdhur

Day-26             Trek to Passugar

Day-27             Borith Lake- Gulmit- Attaabad  

                          Lake- Karimabad

Day-28             Drive to Besham 10/11hrs

Day-29             Drive to Islamabad

Day-30             Fly back

Royalty fee /climbing permit fee U$ 250

Additional Royalty fee U$ 30 per additional member above 7 Pax

Environmental tax U$ 200  

Hotels:

Islamabad: Hunza Embassy- Chancery- Heritage Lodge

Chilas: Midway Shangri-La- Panorama hotel- Chilas Inn

Karimabad: Darbar hotel- Serena hotel- Hunza Embassy

Transport: Islamabad- Karimabad- Borith Lake- back to Islamabad

Camp food- porters- guide- cook- assistant cooks- D3V sleeping tent- Mess tent- Kitchen tent- toilet tent- mattress- chairs

Workman Peak 5890M

Day-01  Islamabad/Rawalpindi

Day-02  Drive to Chilas y 11-12hrs

Day-03  Drive to Skardu 8-9hrs

Day-04  Drive to Askoli 6-7hrs 3000m

Day-05  Trek to Namla 6-7 hrs 3690

Day-06  Trek to Manogo 4-5hrs 3660m

Day-07  Trek to Baintha 5-6hrs 3990m

Day-08  Rest day in Baintha

Day-09  Trek to Napina 5-6hrs 4380m

Day-10  Trek to Snow Lake Hisper BC 4770m

Day-11/13  3 days for climb Workman 5890m

Day-14  Trek to Khani Bassa, after crossing Hisper Pass 5151m

Day-15  Trek to Yutmaru Glacier 4-5hrs

Day-16  Trek to Red Star 6-7hrs

Day-17  Trek to Bitanmal 6-7hrs

Day-18  Trek to Hisper village 5-6hrs

Day-19  Drive to Hunza by 4X4 Jeeps

Day-20  Full day explore Hunza valley

Day-21  Drive to Besham 9-10hrs

Day-22  Drive to Islamabad 6-7hrs

Day-23  Fly back 

Hotels:                                  

Islamabad: Embassy Lodge, Chancery guesthouse, Regency hotel

Chilas:   Panorama hotel, Midway Shangri-La

Skardu: PTDC Motel, Concordia Motel or Masherbrum hotel

Hunza: Embassy Lodge, Serena hotel, Darbar, Eagles Nest hotel

Transport:  Islamabad to Skardu & Karimabad to Islamabad pick and drop from airport to hotel, airport,

4 X4 Jeeps: Skardu, Askoli and Hisper, Karimabad

Camping Food: Askoli to Hisper

Porters: Askoli to Hisper  

Staff:Guide, Cook, assistant cooks 

Camping Equipment: D3V sleeping tent, mess tent kitchen tent, toilet tent mattress, chairs, table lamps etc

Kitchen utensils: Complete brand new kitchen utensils (crockery) 

Kuksil Peak 5870-M

Day-01  Islamabad/Rawalpindi

Day-02  Drive to Chilas by 11-12hrs

Day-03  Drive to Karimabad (Hunza) 6-7hrs

Day-04  Drive to Soost by van & Boats

Day-05  Drive to Kuksil 3-4hrs

Day-06  Trek to Kuksil peak base camp 4-5hrs

D-07/13 (08 days for climbing)  

Day-14  Trek to Kuksil and drive to Gulmit

Day-15 Back to Karimabad by Boats

Day-16  Karimabad

Day-17  Drive to Besham 9-10hrs  

Day-18  Drive to Islamabad 6-7hrs

Hotels:                                  

Islamabad: Embassy Lodge, Chancery Guesthouse, Regency hotel

Chilas:   Shangri-La, Panorama hotel

Karimabad: Hunza Embassy, Serena hotel, Hill Top, Eagles Nest, Darbar Hotel 

Sost: PTDC Motel: Riveria Hotel

Transport: Air-condition mini bus from Islamabad to Karimabad, Sost back to Islamabad

Porters: Kuksil to BC back to Kuksil              

Staff: Guide, cook, assistant cook their wages, camp food, transport insurance

Around Nanga Parbat Trek 2018

D-01 Islamabad/Rawalpindi
D-02 Drive to Chilas 11-12hrs

D-03 Drive to Tarishing

D-04 Trek to Herrligkoffer 3550m

D-05 Rest day in Herrlingkoffer BC

D-06 Trek to Shaighiri 3655m

D-07 Trek to Mazeno BC 4050m

D-08 Trek to Mazeno HC  4700m

D-09 Upper Loiba- Mezeno La 5399m

D-10 Trek to Loiba Meadows 4000m
D-11 Trek to Upper Jale 5-6 hrs 2800m 

D-12 Trek to Kutagali 3-4 hrs 4km 3100m

D-13 Trek to Shaichi 5-6 hrs 2600m

D-14 Trek to Gutum Sagar 5- 6hrs 5km 3500m

D-15 Trek to Beyal 5-6hrs 6km 3500m

D-16 Excursion to Nanga Parbat base camp 

D-17 Trek down to Riakot &  Chilas   

D-18 Drive to Islamabad 11-12hrs

D-19 Fly back

Islamabad: Embassy Lodge- Chancery- Heritage Lodge

Chilas:  Panorama hotel- Midway Shangri-La- Chilas Inn    

Besham: Besham Continental- PTDC Mote   
Transport: Islamabad- Chilas- Astore- Islamabad                              

Jeeps:  Astore to Tarashing /Tato village to Raikot Bridge

Camping Food: Tarashing to Fairy Meadows

Porters: Tarishing to Fairy Meadows, Tato village    

Porters, wages, food, equipment, transport, and their insurance

HGP Staff:Guide, cook, assistant cooks ,Wages, camp food, transport and their insurance
Camping Equiment: D3V sleeping tent, Mess tent, Kitchen tent, Toilet tent, Matress, Chairs
Tables, Kitchen utensils

Spantik Expedition 2018

The peak is located in the Rakaposhi and Haramosh massif near Barpu and Garumbar glaciers. Its highest is 7027m/ 23,0555ft.

In 1892 a large expedition of W.M. Conway went to the area to explore the glacier situated around the peak. The expedition thereafter crossed Nushik pass, which it claims is 5,273m high, and descended on kero Lungma glacier and Arandu. As regards Nushik pass, modern maps indicate its height as 4,990m.

The peak was however, climbed in 1878, from the south ridge, by Japan Hoshi-to-Arashi (star and storm) Club expedition which was led by Nakamura. The Reiho Alpine Club expedition of Japan also climbed it in the area and both approached the peak from Chogolungma glacier. 

July 10, 2018 to August 9, 2018

Day	Itinerary
01	Islamabad	24/25	Trek back to Arandu
02	Drive to Chilas 11-12hrs	26	Drive back to Skardu 6-7hrs
03	Drive to Skardu 8-9hrs	27	Drive back to Chilas 8-9hrs
04	Drive to Arandu 6-7hrs	28	Drive to Islamabad
05	Trek to Chogo Brangsa 3322m	29	Islamabad
06	Trek to Bolocho camp 3800m	30	Fly back
07	Trek to Spantik BC 4160m
08/23	16 days for climbing

Services included list	Hotels
Climbing permit fee $1500	Islamabad:
Additional royalty fee $180	Embassy Lodge- guesthouse- Heritage Lodge
Environmental tax $200	Chilas:
Staff: Guide, Cook & assistant cooks	Panorama hotel, Midway Shangri-La
Transport:	Skardu: K2 Motel- Concordia- Masherbrum
Islamabad- Skardu- Islamabad	Camp Food:
& air port pick and drop	Arandu- Spantik BC-  Arandu & 22 days at BC
Jeeps: Skardu- Arandu- Skardu	Camping Equipment:
Porter: Arandu- Spantik BC- Arandu	D3V sleeping tents, Mess tent, Kitchen tent
Arrange welfare meeting with Alpine Club	Toilet tent, shower tent, Mattresses, Chairs,
Assistance in cargo clearance	Tables, Kitchen utensils

Muztagh Ata Expedition 2018

The highest ranges in the world are situated in North Pakistan. Himalaya-Karakorum- Hindu Kush and Pamir, to climb Muztagh Ata in Pamir Range, visiting Pakistan- China is unique combination for all adventure lovers. Muztagh Ata provides excellent opportunity of skiing from summit to base camp. The tour starts from Islamabad to Sost on Karakoram Highway Providing superb view of the western Himalayan and Karakorum giants, like Nanga Parbat (8126m) (seeping beauty), Ultar Peak (7388m) Diran Peak (7266m), Spantik (7027m) and many more above 7000 meters. Crossing of Khunjreab Pass at 4733m takes you to the highest border crossing on a paved road in the world. 

   

D-01    Islamabad
D-02    Drive to Chilas 11-12hrs
D-03    Drive to Karimabad 5-6hrs
D-04    Aaatabad Lake- Gulmit- Sost	Services
D-05    Drive to Tashkurgan	Climbing permit and all required formalities
D-06    Drive to Karakul Lake	Transport: Islamabad- Sost- Tashkorgan- Karakul Lake-
D-07    Trek to Muztagh Ata base camp	Kashgar-Tashkorgan- Sost- Karimabad- Islamabad
D-08    Trek down to Karakul Lake- Kashgar	Hotels:
D-09/23 (15 days for climbing)	Islamabad: Embassy Lodge- guesthouse- Heritage Lodge
D-24    Visit Sunday market	Chilas:  Shangri-La- Panorama hotel
D-25    Khunjreab Pass- Sost- Gulmit	Karimabad:  Eagles Nest hotel- Darbar hotel- Serena
D-26    Attaabad Lake- Karimabad	Tashkorgan: Pamir Hotel
D-27    Free day in Hunza	Karakul Lake: Yurt
D-28    Drive to Besham 9-10hrs	Kashgar: Seman Hotel
D-29    Drive to Islamabad 5-6hs	Camp food- sleeping tent, mess tent- kitchen tent-
D-30    Fly back	toilet tent-chairs- mattresses

Bekka Brakkai Chhok 6940-M

Bekka Brakkai Chhok 6940-M

Day-01             Islamabad -Rawalpindi

Day-02             Drive to Chilas 11-12 hrs

Day-03             Drive to Bar Nala via Chalt

Day-04             Trek to Toltar camp 4-5 hrs  

Day-05             Trek to Baltar Glacier 5-6 hrs

Day-06             Trek to Base camp 6-7hrs

Day-07/36        30 days for climbing

Day-37             Trek down to Baltar Glacier   

Day-38             Bar Nala and Karimabad

Day-39             Rest day in Karimabad 

Day-40             Drive to Besham 9-10 hrs 

Day-41             Drive to Islamabad 6-7 hrs 

Day-42             Fly back

Hotels:                                   

Islamabad: Embassy Lodge, Chancery guesthouse, Heritage Lodge 

Chilas: Midway Shangri-La, Panorama hotel

Besham: PTDC Motel, Besham Continental 
Transport: Islamabad- Chalt- Karimabad- Islamabad

4 x4 Jeeps:

Chalt to Bar Nala back to Chalt

Camping Food:         

Bar Nala to Brakkai Chhok base camp back to Bar Nala 

Porters: Bar Nala to BC back to Bar Nala

Staff:

Guide, cook, assistant cooks

Camping Equipment:

D3V sleeping tent, mess tent, kitchen tent, toilet tent mattress, chairs, tables table  

Complete kitchen utensils (crockery) 

Laila Peak 6096-M

Laila Peak 6096-M

Laila Peak in Hushe valley near Gondogoro glacier is in Karakorum Range and is 6,096m high. Its distinctive spear-like shape makes it one of the most beautiful mountains of the world. Its North West face has a slope of 45 degrees in more than 1500 vertical meters.

It has been climbed at least once but no record of its ascents has been maintained. According to the local people in Hushe, the Laila peak has been climbed only twice, a total of only seven people have summited.

The height of the Laila peak in Hushe valley has been controversial. Some believe it to be 6200m whereas some mention it as 6614m. In a Japanese mountaineering map by Tsuneo Miyamori (published in 2003), the height of Laila Peak is mentioned as 6096 meters

Day-01                        Arrive at Islamabad transfer to hotel

Day-02                        Drive to Chilas 11-12hrs 

Day-03                        Drive to Skardu 8-9hrs

Day-04                        Drive by jeeps to Hushe valley 6-7hrs

Day-05                        Trek to Dalzampa camp 5-6hrs 

Day-06                        Trek to Laila Peak base camp

Day-07/18                   12 days for climbing

Day-19                        Trek back to Saicho 

Day-20                        Trek to Hushe 4-5hrs

Day-21                        Drive to Skardu 5-6hrs

Day-22                        Drive to Chilas 8-9hrs  

Day-23                        Drive to Islamabad 11-12hrs  

Day-24                        Transfer to Islamabad airport for international flight